Phantom Canyon Road and Cripple Creek in Fall: The Wild Detour Nobody Plans (Updated 2026)

An abandoned railroad bed through a ghost canyon, a giant wooden troll, wild donkeys, and a flat tire that led to the friendliest people in Colorado.

The Phantom Canyon Road is one of the most unusual drives in Colorado and one that almost nobody plans. A 30 mile unpaved road following the old Florence and Cripple Creek Railroad bed through a narrow canyon with low tunnels, wooden bridges, and no cell service. It ends in Cripple Creek, a gold rush town at 9,494 feet where wild donkeys roam the streets and a giant wooden troll kneels on a mountainside above old mine shafts.

None of this was on our plan. We took the Phantom Canyon Road because it looked interesting on the map, and it turned into one of the most memorable days of our entire Colorado road trip. Including a flat tire that, against all odds, became one of the best moments.

Let’s get into it.

Phantom Canyon Road: Why This Detour Became the Highlight

Some days on a road trip don’t go according to plan, and exactly those days become the best ones. The stretch from the Great Sand Dunes over the Phantom Canyon Road to Cripple Creek was supposed to be a transition day. Instead it delivered a ghost canyon, a giant troll, wild donkeys, a flat tire, and some of the warmest people we met in all of Colorado.

Driving the Phantom Canyon Road: 30 Miles on an Old Railroad Bed

The Phantom Canyon Road starts south of Canon City and follows the old railroad bed of the Florence and Cripple Creek Railroad, a narrow gauge line that once hauled gold ore from the mines above. The rails are long gone. The road is not.

For 30 miles the road winds through a narrow canyon along Eightmile Creek. Low tunnels carved from the rock. Wooden bridges over the water. Canyon walls so close together you instinctively fold in the side mirrors. The surface is not just gravel but also sharp rocks and deep holes that can damage a low car quickly. In fall the light falls golden and low into the canyon, the trees on the slopes glow, and you move slowly. Here, that’s not a disadvantage.

Rita the Rock Planter: The Giant Troll Above the Mines

Just before Cripple Creek comes into view, one of the most unexpected stops of the entire road trip appears: Rita the Rock Planter. She sits on Little Grouse Mountain between Cripple Creek and the neighboring town of Victor, on an old mine site with sweeping views across the hills.

Rita is a giant wooden sculpture by Danish artist Thomas Dambo, who creates enormous trolls from recycled wood around the world, each with their own story. Rita kneels on the ground and fills the holes the gold miners left behind. A quiet environmental message that hits harder because directly behind her, an active open pit mine is still tearing the landscape apart. The contrast between the gentle wooden figure and the wounded mountainside behind it stays with you.

She’s roughly 21 feet tall, free to visit, and reachable by a short walk from the parking lot on Highway 67. If you visited Breckenridge earlier on the road trip, you may have already met Dambo’s first Colorado troll, Isak Heartstone.

Cripple Creek: Gold Rush Town at 9,494 Feet

Cripple Creek sits at 9,494 feet in a wide mountain valley and exists because of gold. In the late 1800s this was one of the richest gold districts in the world, growing to over 50,000 people in just a few years. Today about 1,100 remain, and the historic buildings on Bennett Avenue still tell the story of the boom years.

The Flat Tire and the People Behind It

We got to know Cripple Creek in a way we hadn’t planned. After visiting Rita and heading back to the main road, the tire pressure warning lit up. Then the hissing. A flat, at nearly 10,000 feet, with a full day still ahead of us.

What happened next was one of those moments you don’t forget. A local repair shop in Cripple Creek helped immediately, no appointment, no fuss. The people there were warm, funny, and helpful in a way that only small towns can be. No shoulder shrugs, just hands on the tire and a fix. And then the tip that made the stop worth more than any museum: “Have you seen the donkeys yet?”

The Wild Donkeys of Cripple Creek

The wild burros of Cripple Creek are not a tourist concept. They’re history on four legs. The animals descend from the mules and donkeys that once worked in the gold mines. When the mining ended, they were set free, and they stayed. Today a local organization cares for the herd and makes sure they’re well looked after.

Traditionally the donkeys roam freely through town, but depending on the season they may be on a fenced meadow at the edge of town. When we visited in fall, they came curiously to the fence and reliably stole every photo. You can buy feed for a small donation, with the proceeds going to their care.

Tip: Don’t just drive through. Walk Bennett Avenue, look at the historic facades, find the donkeys, have a coffee. For anyone interested in the history, the Cripple Creek Heritage Center gives a good overview of the gold rush era.

Winter tip: Cripple Creek is also worth visiting in winter. The Ice Castles, a frozen attraction with tunnels, towers, slides, and illuminated ice walls at night, transform part of the town into a winter wonderland. In February, the Cripple Creek Ice Festival adds ice sculptures along Bennett Avenue. Both depend heavily on weather, check dates before you go.

How Phantom Canyon Road Fits Into a Colorado Fall Road Trip

This was our day after the Great Sand Dunes. The route went: east across the San Luis Valley, north through Canon City, then the Phantom Canyon Road up to Cripple Creek. From there, down to Colorado Springs for the night. It’s a full day, but every stop adds something different.

► Previous stop: Great Sand Dunes National Park

► Next stop: Garden of the Gods and Colorado Springs

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Phantom Canyon Road: Frequently Asked Questions

🚗 Do I need a 4×4 for Phantom Canyon Road?

High clearance is essential. 4×4 is recommended. The road has sharp rocks, deep ruts, and loose gravel that can damage a low car. We got a flat tire on a vehicle with clearance, so this isn’t a theoretical warning. Check conditions before you go, especially after rain.

📷 Who is Rita the Rock Planter?

A giant wooden troll sculpture by Danish artist Thomas Dambo, roughly 21 feet tall, built from recycled wood on an old mine site between Cripple Creek and Victor. Free to visit, short walk from the parking lot on Highway 67. His first Colorado troll, Isak Heartstone, is in Breckenridge.

🐎 Can I see the wild donkeys in Cripple Creek?

Yes, year round. In summer they sometimes roam freely through town. In fall they were on a fenced meadow at the edge of town where you can visit and feed them for a small donation. Ask locals where the herd is currently, everyone in Cripple Creek knows.

📅 How long does Phantom Canyon Road take?

About 1.5 to 2 hours of pure driving for the 30 miles from Canon City to Cripple Creek. Add time for stops, especially the tunnels and bridges. With Rita and Cripple Creek, plan a half day for the entire stretch.

🍂 When is the best time to drive Phantom Canyon Road?

September and October for fall colors in the canyon. The road is open spring through fall but closes in winter. Avoid driving after rain, the surface becomes slippery and some sections may be impassable.

Final Thoughts on the Phantom Canyon Road

Some days don’t go according to plan, and exactly those days become the best ones. The Phantom Canyon Road through the ghost canyon, Rita on her mountainside, the donkeys and the warm hearted people of Cripple Creek: none of it was planned, and all of it is still among the most vivid memories of the entire Colorado road trip. The detour is sometimes the destination.

Check availability in Colorado Springs here* and book for after the drive. Happy travels.

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Check Out My Other Colorado Travel Guides

Garden of the Gods and Colorado Springs: Our Last Day in Colorado
Great Sand Dunes National Park in Fall: The Most Surreal Place on Our Road Trip
The Million Dollar Highway: Ouray, Silverton and Durango in One Epic Day
How I Spent 3 Days in Telluride: My Perfect Fall Itinerary
Colorado Travel Guide: Best Road Trips and Mountain Towns